Why Do Mechanical Keyboard Switches Feel Different?

The fairest way to compare two switches is to try them in the same keyboard, in the same key position, with the same keycap and typing style. Their specifications can help you choose which switches to compare, but a few headline figures cannot describe the whole press. For example, the CHERRY MX2A Red and Gateron G Pro 3.0 Red are both linear switches listed at roughly 45 units of operating or actuation force, with 2 mm of pre-travel and 4 mm of total travel. Those similarities do not prove they will feel identical.

What switch specifications tell you—and what they don’t

Specifications are useful for narrowing choices. Switch type tells you whether the press is linear, tactile or clicky. Actuation force is the force at the point where the switch registers a keypress; it is not necessarily the force needed to press the key all the way down. Pre-travel is the distance to actuation, while total travel is the full distance the stem can move. Those distinctions matter when comparing switches.

But a listed actuation force is a point on the press, not a complete map of resistance from the start to the end of travel. Published figures may also use different terms, units or tolerances. If a database entry is missing a value, treat it as unknown—not as an invitation to estimate it.

For a plain-language guide to the numbers, see how to read mechanical switch specifications.

The spring changes resistance across the press

A spring’s force curve describes how its resistance changes as it compresses. Two switches can reach a similar force at actuation but differ earlier in the press or as the stem approaches the bottom. Spring design, length and the way it is installed all contribute to that curve. The result may be a press that feels more steadily resistant, builds resistance more noticeably, or feels different at the bottom—even when the headline actuation figures look alike.

This is one reason a single force number cannot tell you whether a switch will feel light or firm throughout its entire travel. It is also why actuation force and bottom-out force should not be treated as interchangeable.

Stem, housing and friction affect smoothness

The stem slides inside the switch housing. Their shapes, guiding surfaces and fit influence how much the stem moves from side to side and how it travels. Small differences can change the impression of smoothness or wobble. Lubrication can also affect friction, but “factory lubed” is not a measurement of how smooth a switch will feel to every person.

Manufacturing tolerances matter too: two samples of the same model may not be perfectly identical. If wobble is part of what you notice, read our explanation of keyboard switch wobble.

The rest of the keyboard changes the impression

A switch does not work in isolation. Keycap shape and material, the keyboard’s plate and case, mounting style, stabilisers and any modifications can change the feel and sound of a keypress. So can your typing technique: pressing gently without reaching the bottom feels different from striking the end of the travel each time.

Descriptions such as “creamy”, “thocky” and “clacky” are subjective shorthand, not guaranteed switch properties. The same switch can sound different in another build, and different listeners may describe the same sound differently.

Specification comparison: two similar linear switches

This is a comparison of published specifications, not a hands-on test. No matched-board test conditions or observations are available here, so it would be misleading to claim that one of these switches feels smoother or sounds better. The manufacturers list these figures:

• CHERRY MX2A Red: linear; 45 cN actuation force; 30 cN initial force; 100 cN final force; 2 mm pre-travel; 4 mm actuator travel. CHERRY also lists factory-applied lubricant. See CHERRY’s MX2A Red specifications.

• Gateron G Pro 3.0 Red: linear; 45±15 gf operating force; 50 gf bottom-out force; 2.0±0.6 mm pre-travel; 4.0 mm maximum total travel; factory pre-lubed; 3-pin or 5-pin. See Gateron’s G Pro 3.0 specifications.

The figures look close, but they are not a complete like-for-like force curve: the listings use different force terms and units, and Gateron gives a tolerance for operating force and pre-travel. They also describe different models, with their own spring and internal designs. The specifications are a helpful starting point—not evidence that the switches will feel the same, or that one will suit you better.

How to compare switches fairly

1. Check compatibility first. Confirm that your keyboard accepts the switch type and pin arrangement. A hot-swappable board does not necessarily accept every mechanical, optical, magnetic or low-profile switch.

2. Shortlist by type and published specifications. Note the force terms, units, travel distances and any stated tolerances. Keep unknown values marked as unknown.

3. Test each switch in the same keyboard position, using the same keycap. Keep the board and surrounding setup unchanged so you are changing the switch rather than several variables at once.

4. Press each switch repeatedly at a similar pace and with a similar touch. Notice resistance across the press, smoothness, side-to-side movement, tactile feedback if present, and what happens at the end of travel.

5. If you can, ask someone else to swap the switches without telling you which is which. This will not remove every source of bias, but it can help you focus on the sensation rather than the name or colour.

For hot-swap testing, follow the keyboard maker’s guidance and avoid forcing a switch into the socket. If your board is soldered, changing switches requires desoldering; it is not a quick swap.

To choose candidates before testing, explore the mechanical keyboard switch database. You can search switches, compare the specifications that are available, and narrow results by switch type, force and pre-travel ranges, silent status or factory lubrication. Use those filters to make a shortlist, then judge the feel in a compatible keyboard rather than relying on the numbers alone.